Peru – a pleasant surprise (1 of 2)

Our journey to Peru starts early, 2 am early. With a taxi journey and early flight, via regional hub Panama, to Lima, the Peruvian capital, nestled on the pacific coast.

We arrived, then panicked as we exited the airport into a steel walled area with police whistling at taxi touts pushing their way forward. It was warm, and we were tired. The panic formed as we realised the promised taxi transfer wasn't there -Lima had a lousy reputation for rib offs and robbery from its airport – at least according to the ".Gov website". We took our time and found one, checking ID, recording number plates and following the route on Google. It was, however, inevitably almost twice the price.

The drive to our hotel seemed familiar; similar to Mexico City, we saw many deprived areas, people sifting through rubbish, houses in poor repair, and buildings with iron bars on windows and gates. Some even had electric fences. But as we headed towards the coast, things improved. Regeneration was more evident with newly built flats and corporate buildings. We later learnt from our Guide how much improved Lima is. "My parents told me that about 30 years ago people wouldn't have gone out after 6 pm. There was a lot of crime - terrorists and killings. It is now much safer with just the odd mugging like you'd get in any major city".

Our hotel was basic, positioned (in what emerges) as the lovely neighbourhood of Miraflores (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miraflores_District,_Lima). We both like to orient ourselves immediately on arrival, and we were hungry. We were pointed towards a nearby shopping mall and told the area was safe. It was just a block away, and we walked through a manicured parade on top of a cliff from which the coastline could be viewed and where we watched surfers in the distance, like tiny seals, enjoying powerful pacific waves.

We were instantly surprised. It was just like Gunwharf in Portsmouth; even H&M had a shop where Jacqui got a hoodie – a plan hatched to solve her summer only wardrobe problem and the weather prediction that it was still cold at night.

Covid restrictions seemed tight. Most people wore marks, gel was everywhere, and we were asked to present our covid vaccination passes to get into shops.

We were there a day early for our tour, so the next day we headed towards the beautiful historical centre a few miles north of our hotel. Traffic was busy, and people were out in numbers. It was the Thursday before Good Friday, and around the cathedrals, people brought small weaved palm crosses, which they carried into the many churches, touching them to religious symbols and praying. Later we learnt that over 90% of the population are roman catholic, a faith imported by the Spanish when they conquered the Inca's almost 500 years before. It was all very touching; their strong belief was so evident. We were warming very quickly to Peru

That evening we met our new group, socialising in a nearby fish restaurant where we tried Ceviche, Peru's national dish. We also all stocked up on altitude sickness medication, strongly recommended by our Guide.

Like Mexico, things kicked off early as we headed back to the airport for an early 80-minute flight to Cusco, whose airport is nestled between mountain ranges. The high altitude (1/3 less oxygen) was instantly noticeable as we dragged ourselves off the plane and onto a waiting bus.

After checking in and downing a cup of coca leaf tea (supposed to help with the altitude), our group walked into town. We had been told to expect police about, as there were strikes planned, which would disrupt transport. This was also why our itinerary had changed, and we would be going to Machu Picchu a day earlier.

Lunch with the group consisted of Alpaca steaks which tasted like beef steak with a hint of lamb liver, washed down with Inca Cola. Then we had time to take in the city. It was stunning. Set amongst mountain peaks, Cusco city has a beautiful setting highlighted by warm, bright sunshine. There were lots of town squares and narrow cobbled streets, giving it the feel of a ski resort in summer. Old church lined streets and buildings, most admittedly needing maintenance, gave it a distant charm. Many were built on Inca foundations, which are still very visible.

This seemed like real Peru, a feeling quickly aided by meeting locals in more traditional dress and the odd Llama (although most were there for photographs). Jacqui, warming further to Peru, decided she liked being tall for a change (average height seems to be below 5ft 2in!).

Our day finished with a more western Pizza, served in a charming restaurant which was quite a walk from our hotel.

Most trudged slowly to its doors, and Jacqui particularly struggled; the altitude, walking and uphill march were too much all at once.

We were packed and off early again the next day, with a minibus trip through the Cusco region to Ollantaytambo.

M&J Part 1 Peru.